PAPA 13 Poster & Mixtape

Through the Backglass – Official PAPA 13 mixtape by Max Terasauro

The Hip Sound – Far Out
The Laurels – Devil’s Well
The Grodeck Whipperjennny – Put Your Thing On Me
The Beaver Patrol – ESP
The Spike Drivers – Strange Mysterious Sounds
Aynsley Dunbar Retaliation – Warning
The Music Machine – Trouble
The Arrows – Cycle-Delic
The Deep – Color Dreams
101 Strings – Trippin’ On Lunar 7
Riders Of The Mark – The Electronic Insides And Metal Complexion That Make Up Herr Doktor Krieg
Dick Hyman – Give It Up Or Turn It Loose
The Electric Latin Love Machine – Windmills Of Your Mind
Tom Dissevelt – Seconds To Eternity
Pink Floyd – Point Me At The Sky

Through the Backglass – Official PAPA 13 mixtape by Max Terasauro


right click, save link as, etc. enjoy.

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Beatniks Koolsville

What looks like an Elvira & the Party Monsters conversion from the same crew who brought us the Hellacopters pin and that Earthshaker turned Metallica machine.


More pics and some video from Dirty Donny here.

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Tournament Approaches: World Cup Soccer ‘78

As requested, here is a summary of how to play Williams’ World Cup (1978).

If the ball is on the left flipper: Cradle the ball. It will go into the “T” kicker and probably into the Corner Kick hole on the right for a goal.

If the ball is on the right flipper: Shoot the left lane to the top to try and complete S-T-A-R. After completing S-T-A-R three times, consider cradling the ball when goal is lit at the Corner Kick hole on the left.

Continue doing these fascinating things until you have maxed out the bonus: 18 goals and 5x multiplier (from 3 S-T-A-R completions). After that… um, yeah. I guess after that, shoot the left lane for 4000 a shot? Seriously though, you max out the bonus, you win, and it’s worth a ridiculous amount (180,000) compared to anything else that can be done on the game.

Do not tilt: Bonus carries over ball-to-ball, so if you max out the goals on Ball 1, your job on Balls 2 and 3 is to get S-T-A-R three times and do a dance of joy. But if you tilt, goals reset! How nasty is that?

And that’s really about all there is to say.

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Tournament Approaches: World Cup Soccer

As recently pointed out, World Cup Soccer was found in all four qualifying banks at PAPA 12: A, B, C, and Juniors/Seniors. Hey, even an earlier World Cup showed up in Classics. World Cup Soccer is generally well-known, but the strategy decisions you make can be surprising. World Cup Soccer is a shotmaking game in general, so this is a good chance to talk about shot efficiency.

Before you play: Ask other players how the game is playing! Seriously, we’ll tell you! For World Cup, the most critical information is the feed from the City spinner: is it safe? incredibly deadly? This has a serious impact on strategy. Ask about “3/4 ramp” returns, how the ball behaves when a left or right ramp shot isn’t strong enough and screams back toward you. If possible, watch another player on the game. Specifically, watch for tilt sensitivity, how much the spinner spins, and how other players are “missing” shots. The left ramp is a really important shot to nail quickly, so watch what happens on players’ first shot to the left ramp. Note settings: ball saver? kickback on? goal lit? free Lock spot? All of these can have effects on strategy.

On kickbacks: World Cup Soccer has a kickback for its gaping left outlane. If the kickback is unlit, lighting kickback should be a priority unless you have multiball lit. To get a chance to light the kickback, shoot the goal or the Striker hole. In general, kickbacks are extra balls, and you’d shoot for an extra ball, right? Don’t shoot for cities unless you have a lit kickback, unless you’re absolutely sure the return is safe. And usually, it isn’t. When you drain a ball down the left outlane of World Cup, think about the value (points-wise) of aiming for the kickback earlier in the ball. Kickbacks are almost always worth going for, except on games with difficult relight rules (such as No Fear and Scared Stiff).

Know the sucker shots: Each game has shots that are valuable but lead to drains. In arcade play, these are worth going for, but in tournaments, they are death. If you think the ball may drain from a successful shot, don’t shoot that unless it is absolutely critical to success. For World Cup Soccer, the sucker shots are the spinner loop (when lit for cities), the right ramp, and Final Draw. Do not shoot these shots without a good reason. I would especially recommend not shooting the right ramp until your first multiball. Do not shoot Final Draw unless it’s lit for multiball; the risk is too great. Because there are lots of drain opportunities, slapping a ball in a random direction is a bad idea. If the ball is out of control, catch it, or things will get worse. From the slings, try directing the ball higher into either the kickback target or, even better, the Free Kick saucers.

Getting started: Multiball is generally the best starting strategy on this game when playing in competition. Here is my recommendation for working through to the first multiball:

  • On the plunge, shoot for the left ramp (not the goal). If you miss this shot a drain is likely, so the ball saver’s best use is to guard against this potential drain.
  • After your first left ramp, shoot the spinner. This shot tends to be easier after a left ramp feeds the right flipper.
  • If the ball returns to the right flipper from the jets, shoot the left ramp again. If the ball returns to the left flipper, shoot Striker or try to backhand the right side of the goal.
  • When the ball returns from the left ramp to the left flipper, shoot the Striker hole. The right ramp is a death shot unless you make it!
  • Shoot the left ramp to collect Lock. If the ball is on the left flipper, shoot Striker or backhand the goal in order to line up a right flipper shot. I have found post transfers difficult on this game, but it is variable.
  • After Lock, shoot the left ramp to line up a shot at Final Draw.

A quick scoring note: the “rank” for your first multiball is 11, and drops by 1 for every 2 goals you score before starting the multiball. Ideally you want 2 or even 4 goals before starting the first multiball, and this is worth trying for as its value is basically 5 million per jackpot you collect and gives you a better chance of reaching Germany and Victory Laps.

Help! Final Draw is too hard!: Try banking it in off the kickback target, or backhanding it. Both can work and are sometimes easier than the regular shot. Ask other players what worked and didn’t work for them, and you’ll be prepared.

During multiball: World Cup’s multiball is built for two balls, so don’t sweat too much when you drop from 3 to 2. Trapping and carefully timed shots pay off very well. The rhythm of this multiball is goal … ramp … goal … ramp. The ideal situation is one ball trapped on each flipper. If you have this and goal is lit, shoot the goal from the right and keep the left ball trapped. When the first ball returns, use it to shoot the left ramp, then backhand the left ball into the goal when the goalie begins moving. This ball may even return to the right flipper before the ball you used to shoot the ramp.

Flailing will get you nowhere fast in this multiball. Make your shots count and trap balls when you can. Try to keep track of is the goalie’s position, since it can help you avoid a “great save”. Either count internally or watch the goalie every so often to know which side of the goal to shoot for.

World Cup’s multiball also has a feature called Special Challenge that can be used once per multiball: hit the Extra Ball button, and jackpot is relit! Use this wisely, by which I mean always. The best time to use it is while a ball is heading toward the goal. Note that this feature may be switched off at PAPA, since it’s a bit unfair to those who don’t know about it.  Be polite and tell your friends and enemies…

After multiball: Since the next multiball will be worth more than the one you just finished… and it’s not really much harder to get to… why not go for that? This strategy really never gets stale. You should know these rules about what lights can advance toward Lock:

  • For the first multiball, you can collect the spinner, left ramp, or right ramp twice only. A free advance is given at the start of each ball, like in Addams Family.
  • For the second multiball, you can only collect the spinner, left ramp, or right ramp once until “Skill” (the third advance), after which everything is lit.
  • For the third multiball, the order of collection is right ramp, left ramp, spinner, right ramp, left ramp.
  • For the fourth and later multiballs (there’s always hope), the order of collection is right ramp, left ramp, right ramp, left ramp, right ramp.
  • Importantly, the Striker hole always awards an advance. After the second multiball, the Striker hole also advances the order of collection listed above, so you can use the Striker hole in place of the right ramp at any time. I recommend this! The Striker hole is easier than it looks and is the shot worth “locking in” from the left flipper.

About goals: Goals are good. A goal on Ball 1 is worth a minimum of 30 million: 10 million for the shot itself, 15 million in bonus (5 million x 3 balls), and 5 million in Ultra bonus. Cashing in the Ultra is worth another 35 million. Goals are good, but consider their value compared to multiball. How many shots does it take to start multiball? No more than 7. How many points is a multiball worth? Only you can decide this one, but if the answer is “over 200 million” then multiball is a more valuable scoring target than goals — per shot, advancing and starting multiball is worth more than shooting a lit goal. This is not to say you shouldn’t go for goals, but I wouldn’t go exclusively for goals unless you are planning to make a ton of them.  Oh, and don’t tilt this game — bonus is generally worth a lot, especially with Ultras.

About cities: Cities score about the same as goals, except there’s no Ultra. So cities are bad. The only reason to go for cities is if you intend to go all the way to Los Angeles (9 cities). If you’ve got the cities all lit, you might as well try for it: the 10 shots (9 cities + Final Draw) is likely to net you almost 1.5 billion, but it’s all or nothing: if you don’t make all 10 shots, you get only a fraction of the points. If the feed from the city loop is challenging, this is not a viable strategy unless you already have a strong score and are trying to shoot the lights out.

Striker Awards: There are seven Striker awards, and they are given out in a specific order in tournament play:

  • Penalty Kick: 30 million for shooting the goal. Since a first-ball goal is worth at least 30 million anyway, this is actually less valuable than just shooting a goal! It’s safe to ignore Penalty Kick, but if you think you can make it, you might as well.
  • 3 Goals: Great award, especially on Ball 1 where it is effectively worth 60 million plus the chance for 105 million more. If you bounce around and light the second Striker early, this is well worth going after even if you haven’t started Penalty Kick yet.
  • 3 Cities: Another great award, this is best spent when no cities are lit. Avoid temptation: do not shoot for Boston Tea Party unless there is another reason you are already shooting the spinner. Its value is very low compared to the risk, and very low compared to the value of advancing toward multiball with another shot.
  • Extra Ball: 50 million point award.
  • Unlimited Kickback: Kickbacks are extra balls, so this is the sweetest award of the bunch. If you get this, go for multiball immediately.
  • Super Free Kick: Disgustingly bad! Next!
  • 20 Million: Wow, what a great award!

TV Awards: Do not shoot for TV Awards, and do not change your strategy when playing a TV Award. Many players dive into Big Goal Round for its average of 20 million per shot, but ignore the lit Goal on Ball 1… which is worth 30 million. Play your normal strategy during TV Awards. The only exception is Extra Ball Round, because the Striker hole is worth 50 million per shot as well as the Lock advance. But I still think this doesn’t change strategy — you should be shooting for the Striker hole frequently anyway since the Lock advance is so valuable. Hit the Goalie and Where’s Striker are risky and do not score nearly enough to be worth playing in competition.

The Magnet: What? There’s a magnet? The Magna-Goal button is a source of credit dots on many World Cups, since it is rarely used. Dude, use it! It’s there for a reason, and it really works. There are two situations where it is easily used:

  • The ball is rolling slowly down the middle from those star rollovers! Panic! Or push the magnet button, duh.
  • The ball is hanging on the left ramp and about to scream toward the middle! Panic! Or push the magnet button and you might be helped.

Why not use it in these situations? It’s not like you’re saving the use of that button for something else, and you don’t get points for not using it. Try it, you’ll like it! Don’t do something that might lead you to say “Oh right, the magnet button…”

Score targets: If you need this many points… try…

  • Less than 100 million: get a goal or two, or look for what Ultras are running. Keep in mind you may not actually need 100 million due to bonus.
  • 100-500 million: go for the regular multiball unless you are really close to Los Angeles and the kickback is lit.
  • Over 500 million: play your normal strategy. Multiball is a good idea, cities generally not good unless you are close to Los Angeles.

At PAPA 12, a very difficult World Cup was featured in A Division with lightning (Fish Tales / Dracula) flippers and very hard settings. Only six players scored over 1 billion, with 250 million being the score to earn points. With a tough game, shot efficiency becomes even more important, and basically anyone making multiball was certain of scoring something from their game. In B Division, the game was a little easier, but still only 8 players scored 1 billion, with 350 million being the score to earn points, and another 8 players scoring 1 billion between the C, Juniors, and Seniors divisions. These results suggest that going for cities is very weak: you don’t need Los Angeles to succeed, and you’re very unlikely to get there if you try.

I hope this helps and let me know what you’d like to see next.

- Bowen, very former PAPA champion

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Pinball in 1080p

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California Extreme Finals Watchable via TourneyCam

Two time defending World Pinball Champion Keith Elwin at California Extreme earlier this month on Dr. Who versus Jim Belsito. Spark behind TourneyCam is coming courtesy Randy Elwin of Pinball 101 fame.

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Tournament Approaches: Jackbot

Hey, here’s another of those “how to play this game” overviews. As before, one of my goals for this series is to describe how and why playing competition games differs from playing normal games. This time it’s Jackbot, a game used in PAPA A qualifying and B finals in 2009. Jackbot is a game with multiple scoring strategies, with varying degrees of risk and reward.

Before you play: Ask other players how the game is playing! They’ll actually tell you! For Jackbot, critical information includes the feeds from the Game Saucer, the eyeball saucers, and the bumpers, the likelihood of a ramp shot rejection, and whether or not the eyeball saucers are holding shots cleanly. The Game Saucer return is of particular importance, since if its feed is difficult or drainy, it can significantly impact strategy. If possible, watch another player on the game. Specifically, find out if a ball saver is active or not, watch for tilt sensitivity, and get a sense for how the other player is “missing” their shots. Does this player keep missing the Game Saucer, hitting the post on the left? Now that you know, you won’t… well, not as often anyway. Also, watch another player to determine the Visor settings: how many locks for the first multiball? the second? These settings can change strategy significantly.

Know the sucker shots: Each game has shots that are valuable but lead to drains. In arcade play, these are worth going for — they’re fun, they score points, you can save the ball with a shake, and if you drain, you can earn an extra ball. In tournaments, sucker shots are death. Outlanes are wider. Tilts are tighter. Reaction time is faster. Extra balls are off. If you think the ball may drain from a successful shot, don’t shoot that unless it is absolutely critical to success. For Jackbot, this is the Visor. Do not shoot for the Visor willy-nilly. See comments below about how to shoot the Visor, but in general, the more you avoid the Visor, the better you will do in tournament Jackbot.

Getting started: One key when playing a game for the first time is to make a few shots, and ideally get to multiball. In multiball, the penalty for mistakes is the end of multiball, and not the end of the ball in play. One reasonable goal in Jackbot is to get to the regular multiball as quickly as possible. But… that means shooting the Visor, and didn’t I just say not to shoot for that? See below.

On center posts: Do not trust the center post on Jackbot!! Only on an absolutely dead-center drain will Jackbot’s center post save you. It is probably better to play as though the post is not there. Frequently, the ball caroms off the center post in an odd way, so be prepared to use a flipper immediately to save the ball off the post. Also, watch out, since PAPA games sometimes have their center posts removed, and others have their center post rubber removed, which is even worse.

The Visor: A critical play in Jackbot is instantly opening the Visor. Pinbot had the same feature: at the start of a new Visor, the rows and columns will strobe, and if your first shot to the Visor hits the right one, the whole Visor is cleared immediately. One shot to replace up to 25! That means this shot is the most important shot in the game, but can easily be screwed up by a bad bounce, especially out of the bumpers and into the wrong part of the Visor. So here is what to do:

  • Plunge “softly”, trying to get the ball just past the edge of the shooter lane. You want to hit no bumpers, no switches, nothing.
  • The ball should roll to the left flipper with the ball saver still on. Either trap it there, or let it bounce over and trap on the right. Do not flip and send the ball away. If you have to shoot something, aim for the ramp, since the ball is unlikely to bounce into the Visor targets.
  • After trapping the ball, time your shot to hit the leftmost column when it lights up. The ideal shot is from the right flipper, not the left, but either is okay. If you’re going to miss this shot, miss to the left, since it won’t hit the Visor at all.  That is why the leftmost column is the ideal target.
  • Visor open! Hopefully.

In later phases of the game you may find the Visor open when you don’t want it to be, but the strobing is still happening. Don’t shoot for the row targets! Get the ball into the Game Saucer or up the ramp and the Visor will close. Do not shoot for the Visor willy-nilly or you will lose. If you find yourself with an empty Visor and a desire to shoot it anyway, stop and reconsider, but if you must, aim for the row targets. They carom frequently to get 2, 3, or more hits, and are less likely to send the ball screaming down the center or sides.

During multiball: Four shots score in multiball: under the left ramp (try backhanding! works great!), the two eyeball locks (known as Left Eye and T-Boz), and the Hit Me target on the right. Important is the “Super Jackbot” earned by locking a ball in both locks simultaneously. This awards the next three values in an increasing chain of points, so this is really worth going for. The easiest way to do this is to trap one ball on each flipper then “backhand” each of the locks. Backhand shots are less likely to be rejected by the locks, and the shots seem easier (to me) as backhands. Don’t forget about the Game Saucer, which relights all shots and holds the ball for a few seconds. This is a good way of earning more when the Hit Me target is the only thing lit.

After multiball: There are two strategies worth going for on Jackbot. Continued multiballs, and Casino Run. I recommend playing two multiballs before going toward Casino Run, since the second multiball is more valuable (and 3 balls instead of 2) and can still be earned by shooting the “complete visor” shot described above. If you miss a Visor shot you might consider abandoning the Visor and going for Casino Run.

Game Saucer / Cheating: Note that the left flipper controls the next game, so you can choose the game you want to play. Here are some comments on the games:

  • Keno: The most valuable game, but watch out: this game will kill the “complete Visor” shot if you are in that phase.  In general, save this until you’ve built up its value.
  • Slot Machine: This game sometimes awards a 2-ball multiball, which may or may not be a good thing. Ignore the Hurry-Up if you get one.
  • Dice, Poker: Not much to say about either of these. Both become more valuable in a very long game, but it’s unlikely to matter here.
  • Cheating: I am told that in tournament play, every fourth cheat works, starting with the fourth. I don’t know if this is actually true. You can cheat by hitting the “Extra Ball” button during the animation for any game and for the end-of-ball bonus. The best time to cheat is during Keno (gives 99 million), or if you have three aces in Cards (4 aces = 149 million). Slot Machine cheat may give “Light Extra Ball”, which is 200 million. The worst time to cheat is during Poker if you don’t have three aces (generally awards 10 million more than what you would have gotten). Cheating dice may be effective with a very high value or a very low roll, but it is hard to beat Keno for the points.

In all games other than Slot Machine, a “Double or Nothing” offer appears. Shoot under the ramp to collect. Always take this offer unless you need exactly that number of points. On the first run through the games, collecting Double or Nothing (on a fairly generous timer) also relights the next Game Saucer! Since you would need the ramp shot anyway, why not take an easier shot plus a side of bonus points? If it is the last game, the Game Saucer will award the Double or Nothing and then start…

Casino Run: This is one of the greatest single-ball modes in all of pinball, and in tournament play there are a lot of decisions to make. First, use the Cheat button at every opportunity. In general, Casino Run will let you get away with one “bomb” by cheating it away (the normal cheat rules do not seem to apply here). A generally safe strategy is to “continue” until you hit your first bomb, then get out. If you pick up the “no bomb” option, you can generally survive two bombs before having to give up.

Another thing to keep in mind is that extra balls and specials may be awarded by Casino Run. An extra ball is worth 200 million, and a special is worth 500 million, and these will not be awarded if you bomb out. They are not reflected in the visible Casino Run total, but still count as points!

I am cautious about continuing in Casino Run in tournament, because all the points count. In qualifying, pushing an average score into the top 20-25% is more important than going for a runaway score. In finals, use your opponents’ scores to judge what you should do, but collecting puts more pressure on them to either get their own Casino Run or play a strong multiball.

Other advice: Try not to lose control of the ball, since slingshot -> outlane drains are common. The inlanes are narrower on Jackbot than on most games, so be especially careful. If the inlane posts have been removed, the best save is off the divider, off the side wall, and over to the inlane.

Nudging is not very significant on Jackbot except on slings. The higher you push the ball off the top of the slings, the less likely it is to get into danger. You want the sling to send the ball into Hit Me or into the drop targets. By the way, both those shots are pretty useless otherwise, and so is the ramp for anything other than relighting Game Saucer. “Cashier” mode is worth a good amount from the ramp, but it doesn’t happen that often.

The left flipper on Jackbot gets very little attention, because there is so little of value to shoot from it. If you have a ball trapped on the left flipper, consider using a post transfer to the right, then shoot either the ramp or Game Saucer. Do not shoot for the Visor willy-nilly!

Score targets: If you need this many points… try…

  • Less than 200 million: go for Game Saucer unless Visor is already open for multiball. One or two well-chosen Game Saucers should do it, especially with double or nothing points.
  • Less than a billion: if close to Casino Run, do that. If close to multiball it may be worth the risk to hit the Visor a few times. If not close to anything, Casino Run is a safer goal and makes a billion.
  • 2 billion: if on the second Casino Run rounds, do that, since Game Saucer awards will be larger. Otherwise, you’ll need a very strong multiball.
  • over 2 billion: relax, and play your normal strategy. Good multiballs are your target but the points are makeable.

At PAPA 12, 2 billion was good for 14th place overall in A Division qualifying, and no one in B Division finals scored over 1.1 billion. This suggests to play it safe — take the easy early multiballs, if there are any, and play Game Saucer for Casino Run. Casino Run only takes 9 shots to start, so if you go for it, it’s pretty likely to happen.

    I hope this helps and let me know in comments what questions you have or what other games you’d like to see profiled.

    - Bowen, long-ago PAPA champion

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    Keeping an Eye on Pre-Registrations

    This time last year we had 97 pre-registrants signed up, while we’re +13 that with 110 at the moment and little more than word of mouth to thank. Historically speaking though, here are how the numbers look – as per dear sigma’s files:

    Tournament Year Pre-Registrations Total Players Registered
    Pinburgh 2001 49 171
    Pinburgh 2002 68 145
    Pinburgh 2003 70 149
    PAPA 7 2004 102 218
    PAPA 8 2005 123 275
    PAPA 9 2006 141 315
    PAPA 10 2007 132 272
    PAPA 11 2008 155 312
    PAPA 12 2009 213 389


    As always, general admission is free, gratis, walk on through our doors, everyone is invited to come play, we’re open for over 55 hours, from August 12-15.

    PAPA HQ is a 30,000sq ft facility, dedicated vintage arcade gameroom stocked full with over 425 pinball machines, 20some classic arcade games, and room to roam. For the World Pinball Championships we arrange 51 of the collection’s games in the ring on the red carpet for competitive play, the remaining 375+ machines on the purple carpet are set to token play for any and all who so desire. 4 tokens for $1, games are typically 2tokens/1game/3balls.

    Over the past few years it’s become more than evident that PAPA is growing, the largest most competitive pinball tournament on the planet has earned itself a reputation, and we honestly have no idea how big things are going to get anymore! In 2009 at PAPA 12 we figure well over 2,000 people made their way through our doors to get their game on.

    If you’re coming strictly to compete, help clue us in to how many of you plan on descending in Pittsburgh to get serious for cash and rank by pre-registering. Let us know how much energy we’re going to need to focus on the center of the arena.

    PAPA 13

    Is that BBQ I smell? Ribs? Vulture’s wing?

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    Obligatory Who

    Pinball Wizard at Woodstock

    BONUS JAM: Sparks

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    Skateball

    The 70′s were a funny time in skateboarding. At times, the industry and the public at large tended to view it almost as a carnival ride or amusement park attraction. Case in point, Skateball. Skate and Annoy received a couple old pictures of a Skateball installation at the Olympic Skatepark in Crystal Lake Illinois a few years back when SnA was being updated on a very infrequent basis. Skateball was basically pinball on a halfpipe, where the skater simulated the ball. It’s one of those things you hear rumors about but don’t quite give them credit unless you actually see it. Five pictures and a little history on Skate and Annoy.

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